If the CoolBot still seems to be functioning properly you need to check the air conditioner.
- Be sure the AC is still set in the “cool” mode
- Re-check the AC set temp. It should be as set as cold as it will possibly go, about 60F on most air conditioners
- If there is any dust on the fins of the AC clean it!!! At least once a year you should slide the mechanics of the AC out (according to mfg instructions) you can set it on the ground and hose it down or pressure wash it.
- If the air coming out of the AC is not ice-cold you may just need to reboot the AC. If it has a test/reset button built into the power cord or on the plug press the test button to turn the AC off. Wait 3 minutes. Press the Reset button to power the AC back on. You will need to wait 1 – 2 minutes longer for the compressor to cycle back on.
- If it doesn’t have a test/reset button use the power switch. Still, leave it off for 3 min before restarting, if the compressor was on you could damage it by restarting too soon. You can also unplug it from the wall for the same effect.
- If the AC still doesn’t blow cold air check your circuit breaker. On a 220V air conditioner the circuit breaker will have 2 switches. It is possible for only one to be off so the AC’s lights and fan would still work but not the compressor.
- Last thing to try, disconnect the CoolBot from the AC and try see if it comes on by itself, you can hold your hand around the air conditioners temperature sensor to simulate a warmer room, always wait at least a minute since most AC’s have a built-in delay.
- You may have a broken temperature sensor on your Air Conditioner. If you have an LG air conditioner this is easily replaceable. Note your model number and go to RepairClinic.com. It’s called a thermistor assembly and costs about $5. It plugs into the circuit board with an (attached) MTA plug.
- Another quirk associated with the LG brand (and occasionally GE) is sometimes condensation will form on the circuit board causing a host of problems. Sometimes the AC won’t cycle off even after you turn the power off. (Look for tell tale water droplets inside the LCD display) Open the compartment behind the digital display and examine the 2 circuit boards. If there is moisture on them use a hair dryer to dry them off. You can also coat the boards with a good spray of WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner which helps prevent moisture and dirt from accumulating. On some models (particularly the older ones) there is room to stuff a little piece of insulation behind the boards to help prevent the hot air outside from meeting the cold air in the cooler right at the circuit boards. The condensation can form connections that are not supposed to be there. You can also leave the control panel open so the boards are completely in the cool air which would lessen the possibility of condensation forming.
- If the air flow at the back of the air conditioner is restricted (check manufacturers instructions for proper setbacks for your air conditioner) it can cause the compressor to overheat and the AC to shut off causing the room temperature to rise.
- Was the cooler constructed using fiberglass insulation? Look at the bottom of the walls where they meet the floor, is it wet? After a while in refrigerator temperatures fiberglass insulation will absorb moisture and lose its insulating ability. At this point the only thing to do is rebuild the walls of the cooler without any fiberglass.
IF THE AIR CONDITIONER IS FUNCTIONING PROPERLY CHECK THE CALIBRATION OF THE SENSORS OF THE COOLBOT:
Check the calibration of the room and fins sensors
Gently slip the fins sensor out of the face of the air conditioner. Wait about 2 minutes for the fins sensor to register the air temp then using the arrow keys on the CoolBot click back and forth between the room and fins modes and compare the temperatures.
If the sensors read more than 3 degrees different then one is broken. One may obviously read a very high or low reading but you can also check the temperatures against another thermometer to determine which one needs to be replaced.
Set the CoolBot in the “workaround” mode and order a new sensor.
The room and fins sensors on the CoolBot are interchangeable. We are going to determine which one is bad and only use the good one!
- Discard the bad sensor! If there is a secondary thermometer in the cooler check the temperatures against it. Unplug and throw away the bad one. Don’t get it mixed up and accidentally reuse it. It will always cause you problems.
- Plug the good sensor into the fins port. Gently insert the tip of the sensor tip into the fins of the AC, low and centered if it will reach but definitely not directly over a coolant tube (peek through the fins to locate the pipes)
- Leave the room port on the CoolBot empty. The CoolBot will read “ER” but it has a really good algorithm for guessing the room temperature so it will continue to function almost normally, within just a few degrees of the set temperature, till you get a new sensor.
If the sensors read within 3 degrees of each other then check the setup.
- Check the connection between the CoolBot heater wire and the AC temperature sensor, the wires should lay side by side like two fingers of the same hand and be wrapped snugly with aluminum foil which is conductive, this last point is important because if they are wrapped with insulating tape the sensor will not sense the room temp to shut the air conditioner's compressor off at the right time. The AC can freeze or the room can get too cold.
- Check the placement of the fins sensor in the face of the AC. It should be low and centered if possible but definitely arranged between two coolant tubes, not right over one, that would cause a false cold reading and cause the AC to shut off too soon resulting in a cooler that is not cool enough. The sensor should be gently inserted just about ⅓ of an inch into the fins.